Any of them will look as good or much better than the Factory finished guns. To finish the wood you can use Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung Oil or Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, hand rubbed into the wood. It will create a non glossy brown finish which is very durable and historically correct. It requires humidity to work, and you must follow the instructions exactly but that's pretty easy to do. If you choose to brown your steel parts, I would suggest using "Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown and Degreaser". Very few (if any) of the Hawkens were blued. I believe some of the Hawkens rifles furniture was color case hardened however browning was popular during that period especially for the barrel. I do not recommend using any of the oil based stains like Minwax. If you do decide to stain it because it is too light, use a alcohol or water based stain. Sometimes removing some wood will change the color. While the wood is wet, it will look exactly like it would if you were to just apply a finishing oil without staining at all.īy the way, do this again after you've sanded the stock and it's ready to finish. Dampen the wood and look at it's color and figure (if any). When you get your kit, take the stock outside into the bright sunlight along with a wet washrag. The stock is Walnut and Walnut usually doesn't require any staining at all. Now that we've got thru that, as far as stains go, I would hold off on buying any stain right now. First, be prepared to hear that the Lyman GPR is not a very good representation of a true Hawken, but it is about as close as currently available guns.Īlso be prepared to hear that Flintlocks were not found on the Hawken Half Stock rifles.
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